Cinsault

Cinsault is one of the classic varieties of the Mediterranean south of France, and for most of the twentieth century it was grown for the wrong reason: it crops enormously, and in the era of bulk wine production that was all anyone asked of it.

The vine is drought-tolerant and heat-resistant, with large berries and relatively thin skins, which gives pale, low-tannin, moderately alcoholic wine. Those qualities make it poor at producing concentrated reds and excellent at producing perfumed, light ones — a distinction that took a long time to be appreciated.

It is a significant component of southern Rhône and Languedoc blends, where it lightens and perfumes the heavier Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, and it is one of the most important rosé grapes in Provence.

The interesting development is single-varietal Cinsault, particularly from old bush vines. In the Languedoc and increasingly in South Africa's Swartland and Darling, growers working with vines planted fifty or eighty years ago are making pale, fragrant, low-alcohol reds with raspberry, redcurrant, rose petal and a savoury, peppery edge. These have become some of the most talked-about wines in the Cape.

South Africa has its own history with the grape, where it was known as Hermitage and where in 1925 it was crossed with Pinot Noir at Stellenbosch University to create Pinotage.

Lebanon's Bekaa Valley also has significant old plantings, where it is a component of the traditional Château Musar blend.